10 of the best Hidden

Boulder Problems in the North East

By Tim Rankin

It's that time of year again another disappointing winter is coming to an end most climbers in the north east are honing their strength and technique in anticipation of a good spring. For me this is when the best Bouldering conditions in the North East prevail and I look out my tooth brush and look forward to some high friction frosty mornings.

For those of you getting bored of the same old haunts and are looking for some new motivation here are 10 classic boulder problems you just might not have heard of.

Approach details for all the area described can be found in the SMC North-East Outcrops guide book (N.E.O). Page numbers are given beside the problem name and grade.

All photos Tim Rankin collection.

(Above photo Mark Scott enjoying Tumble Down 6b (Font 6b+) Craig Corn Arn)

Right Angle 4c, Craigmaroinn, Protlethen N.E.O Page 136

(Tim Rankin demonstrates)

Although in the current guide book this fine square arête is often forgotten on the Portlethen circuit. But it shouldn't be missed especially if you are just finding your way on arêtes. It yields to a classic balancy high step.

The Aberdonian 6a, Craigmaroinn, Protlethen N.E.O Page 136

(Guy Robertson styling it)

Technically an eliminate but when chalked the allure of its holds and direct line will draw you back again and again until it's done. Just left of the obvious flake crack on the left end of the warm up wall is this compelling line of side-pulls. Beautiful moves lead to an interesting top out and if you're up for it the sitting start is even better (Font 7b+).

Razor Back 6b (Font 6c) Craigmaroinn, Protlethen N.E.O Page 136

(Wilson Moir showing the way spotted by Mark Scott)

Another unsung classic lurking amongst the Portlethen jumble. The right arête of the Lost Wall is amply named but those who preserver will be rewarded by it absorbing moves and stunning line. A Personal favourite of mine, needing both power and deception in equal measure and a bench mark at the grade. It is started matching the small crimp below the start of the arête.

Golden Brown 6a, Craig Corn Arn N.E.O Page 414

(Mark Scott focused on success)

The superb boulders beneath Craig Corn Arn are not often frequented which is a crying shame as they offer undoubtedly the best natural lines in the area. The surroundings are vintage Deeside but with out the bustle and tranquillity is guaranteed. Half way up the boulder field on its left edge is a deceptively high slab. Golden Brown climbs the shallow rib up the centre of the slab and ranks up there with any of the classic slabs in the country. Superb moves on excellent rock leads with pulse racing to a friction finish. It doesn't get better than this.

The Funk 6a, Craig Corn Arn N.E.O Page 414

(Mark Scott shows his “Funk” moves)

The Summit boulders are the real place to clear your head after a hectic week at work. If you continue up pass the crag to the top of the hill and head left along the crest you will stumble upon this collection of angular blocks. Although the rock is never as good as below the crag the lines and landing more than make up for it. The Funk climbs the leaning arête of the highest boulder up the hill. Obvious to recognised from its look of simplicity but alas looks are deceptive. If you thought this looked easy and wasn't try the sit down start 6b (Font 6c). Do you have the “Funk”?

Masonic Finger-Shake 6c (Font 7a), Cummingston N.E.O Page 311

(Guy Robertson joins the lodge)

Cummingston is certainly not hidden to the north east boulderer however this problem might be. Situated on the right wall of the bay formed by the Prophet Walls you could be forgiven for never seeing its merger chalked holds. Worthy of inclusion for its name alone this problem epitomises everything great about sandstone Bouldering. Small holds friction and technicality, brilliant. It climbs the smooth wall just right of the cave with out the use of the thin crack to the right and finish's at the horizontal break.

Sweet Cheeks 5c, Clashfarquar Boulders N.E.O Page 164

(Neil Morrison gets slapping)

Although there scale is mentioned in the current guide book not many make the tricky approach to these impressive boulders. Those who do will be rewarded by the best bouldering on the coast by far. Sweet Cheeks is the impressive undercut arête on the landward side of the “Big Grey” boulder unmistakable on the approach. It is usual to make a jump start and continue slapping up “sweet cheeks” to gain the slab above. If you're feeling frisky the sitting start gives one of the best hard problems in the area (Font 7b+).

Tastes Like Candy 6b (Font 6c), Clashfarquar Boulders N.E.O Page 164

(Gordon Lennox shows faith in friction)

Climbing the bulbous wall just right of Sweet Cheeks is an even sweeter problem. Superb friction, slopping holds and dynamic moves, Tastes like Candy is like no other in the area and a problem you will want to taste again and again. The name is an attempt to sum up that feeling when you discover something very special for the first time. For me that was when I first tasted candy and the rest is history!

Clash Arête Sit Start 6c (Font 7a+), Clashfarquar Boulders N.E.O Page 164

(Tim Rankin making the most of good friction)

On the seaward side of the big grey boulder is this stunning blunt arête. Excellent from a standing start but truly outstanding from the sit start. The way is obvious but can you hold the holds! A must on every aspiring boulderers tick list.

The Maze 5b, Craig Stirling Hill N.E.O page 488

(Tim Rankin spans the sitting Start)

On the little hill on the left as you approach Craig Stirling is this fine collecting of low boulders and walls. An excellent place to while away a few hour in the evening sun and a must on the local circuit to climb this problem. The Maze is the fine arête on the right end of the undercut wall. It gives a delightful sequence of dynamic moves on sloping holds unusual on a problem of this grade. A sitting start can be added at no change to the grade which extends the joy even further.